This French river cruise is so good, people do it twice

CroisiEurope’s river cruise ship MS Cyrano de Bergerac. Photo / CroisiEurope
Drinking in the beauty of the stunning Bordeaux region while cruising along sun-soaked rivers is not only soul-soothing, it’s also the perfect way to discover southwest France’s many delights, writes Nannette Holliday.
“This is our third Bordeaux river cruise on Bergerac,” chime Scottish friends Sue and Evelyn, two of my new dinner companions aboard CroisiEurope’s river cruise ship MS Cyrano de Bergerac.
We’re on a seven-day return cruise through the Aquitaine region from Bordeaux to Royan, along the Gironde Estuary and the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers.
READ MORE: Everything you need to know before booking a European river cruise.
“We just love the food and wine of the region, and it’s showcased in every meal on board. The all-inclusive meals and beverages make the cruise affordable,” adds Sue. “We’ve done all the excursions, so we laze on the sun deck, stroll a port or enjoy the sea and sand now.”
I can’t hide my amazement. I’ve never been on the same cruise or holiday twice. While I’ve previously visited the Bordeaux region, I’ve never seen it from a river cruise perspective, and I’m excited by the opportunity.
However, I wholeheartedly agree with Sue; our first dinner was delicious. Showcasing the region-renowned foie gras, a tasty lamb fillet with sauteed fresh vegetables, brie filled with mascarpone and pignolat and, for dessert, the emblem of Bordeaux savoir-faire, canele, with its soft rum and vanilla centre and caramelised crust.
I instantly knew I’d leave the ship a few kilos heavier, and there was no point in worrying about it. After all, I’d joined for the experiences, and this was an authentic French food and wine-swilling journey.
The following day, we ventured through the iconic Medoc Wine Region. Tucked between the estuary of the Gironde River and the Atlantic Ocean, we saw many famed AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlee) vineyards, including Haut-Medoc, Saint Julien, Pauillac and the domains Mouton Rothchild, Latour and more.
The region is renowned for its rich reds, from cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc to petit verdot, malbec, and carmenere. Even before midday, the winery tour and tastings at Chateau Maucaillou were quickly scoffed down. Founded in 1840 by Pierre Dourthe, the estate has remained within the family holdings, growing from 2.5ha to 150ha today.
Back on board, we continued devouring the superb regional cuisine and wines as we sailed into the charming seaside town of Royan on the French Atlantic coast in time for a sunset tour of the city.
Capital of the Cote de Beaute in the Charente-Maritime, Royan is a buzzing port and holiday town with five caramel-coloured sandy beaches and a 1000-boat marina. Its quaint Belle Epoque buildings stand side-by-side with modern, new-form architecture after much of the city was destroyed during World War II. The Church of Notre Dame de Royan is a perfect example, along with the spaceship-shaped market building further down the road. More traditional French bars and restaurants line the esplanade, ideal for a relaxing drink and some people-watching.
Our day trip to Rochefort included exploring the former naval town, the Royal Dockyards, and its centrepiece, the Corderie Royale rope factory, before venturing on to the historic port town of La Rochelle.
Lunching at the Aquarium’s rooftop Brasserie La-Haut, with its Vieux Port and old-town views flanked by the three famous towers of Tour saint-Nicolas, Tour de la Chaine and Tour de la Lanterne, fortification remains, whetted our appetite for the guided town walk afterward.
I was captivated by La Rochelle’s narrow, cobble-stoned streets, Renaissance-era architecture, passageways covered by 17th-century arches, and half-timbered medieval houses. Being a Friday, the open-air bars and restaurants were packed and shops displayed their wares along the sidewalk. It was difficult to ignore the bargains and keep up with our guide. But when free time came, several of us headed back down the lanes before succumbing to the temptations of an outside bar near the final meeting point.
The region is renowned for its cognac and pineau, a tasty, sweet wine that accidentally came about when a winemaker added wine to a barrel that still had some cognac. I purchased a bottle of pineau blanc, like an ice wine or sauterne, as I prefer it to the pineau rose or rouge, which are more like a port. Sharing it with the table that evening, all agreed.
The next day, walking across a much larger river ship moored beside us to meet our coach in Libourne made me appreciate our boutique MS Cyrano de Bergerac, with its capacity of 174 passengers and only 117 aboard.
Soon, Unesco heritage-listed Saint-Emilion was on the menu. I was excited, as I’d only driven past it when living in the area 15 years earlier. While Saint-Emilion’s wines are world-famous now, it was a religious pilgrimage village long before the wine. It’s named after Emilion, a Breton monk who settled in a cave here in the eighth century. Saint-Emilion became a key landmark on the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage route to Spain, which explains the abundance of churches, convents and religious buildings.
The most impressive is the underground Eglise-Monolithe rock church and catacombs. The modest carved wooden double-door entrance belies its internal size. At 38m long, 20m wide and 11m high, it’s the largest monolithic church in Europe. The outside bell tower stands 53m above the village, and if you’re up to climbing the 196 steps, the 360-degree views of the surrounding vineyards are rewarding.
Home to delicious melt-in-the-mouth macarons, Saint Emilion’s steep, narrow cobble-stoned Medieval streets are also a treasure trove of wine caves, cafes, bars, and restaurants. My favourite was the ancient monastery and former underground quarry-turned-cave Clos des Menuts, with its moss-laden rock-carved picture walls and dust-covered bottles and barrels.
Merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc grapes dominate the area. The rouge of the day was a wine tour and tasting at the fourth-generation Roskam-Brunot family’s Chateau Cantenac, with many purchasing the smooth drop to take home.
Cadillac was another surprising little historic town on the Garonne. The magnificent, fully furnished Chateau de Roquetaillade was an eye-opener. Still occupied by the same family for over 700 years, it’s a historical monument with the first 1600 Renaissance chimneys of the region and ramparts, towers, dungeons and a chapel from the Middle Ages.
A short drive away, we toured and tasted the two-century-old Chateau Simon, smoothly satisfying sauternes. They also produce graves and bordeaux. Back on board, we sampled Chateau Simon’s semillon, sauvignon blanc, rose, merlot and cabernet sauvignon at lunch and dinner.
My final day was a visit to Bassin d’Arcachon, France’s oyster capital. An hour’s easy drive from Bordeaux, the vast bay is a mix of ocean and fresh waters and a fish and oyster reservoir. Calmly cruising the area by boat reveals its Bird Island, the “cabanes tchanquees” stilt houses, oyster beds, expansive sandy beaches, and the Dune du Pilat in the distance as the flat-bottomed pinasses zoomed past, ferrying locals around.
The 8000-year-old Dune du Pilat, at 110m high, 616m wide and 2900m long, is the largest dune in Europe and the region’s showstopper. Climbing to the top provides extraordinary panoramic views of the bay and surrounding area.
At Gujan Mestras, Maison de l’Huitre, a museum like no other, we learned all about oyster farming in the region. I love eating oysters, but I had no idea a starfish could open them and eat them, too.
It was time to succumb to the taste testing at Le Routioutiou family restaurant, a short stroll away. My six fresh, golden, palm-sized oysters slide down deliciously. I could’ve had many more, so I was delighted to see them in front of me later that night at dinner. It was the perfect ending to my gastronomic journey in southwestern France.
River cruising certainly slows things down. It’s a wonderful way to experience the culture, gastronomy and historic treasures of a country like France. It changes how travellers experience a destination, often exposing the uniqueness of lesser-visited areas while providing ample time for rest and relaxation. As a destination, France balances style, charm, culture and cuisine, melding old and new in a gentle, nostalgic way.
Would I do this river cruise again, like Sue and Evelyn? You bet. The extra kilos were worth every mouthful.
CroisiEurope is a third-generation family-owned and operated business based in Strasbourg, France. Its fleet of 50 four and five-anchor vessels cruise Europe, Asia, Africa, and America on 39 beautiful rivers.
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